Bike Milk is recommended by elite racers, weekend warriors, high km applications, mechanics and the best bike shops as their preferred dry film chain lube.
The advanced formulation has a triple action CLEAN-LUBE-PROTECT which means the drivetrain runs very clean and quiet in both wet and dry conditions.
Bike Milk is better than other dry film chain lubes because:
DIRECTIONS FOR USEStage 1: cleaning chain
- Has excellent penetrating-cleaning-degreasing properties to remove grime buildup and assist lube flow throughout moving chain parts.
- After film formation, the chain stays exceptionally clean without greasy, sticky, wet residue to attract dust onto the drivetrain surfaces.
- Dry film coating means no wet residue buildup which can rub off to leave dark "grease" stains.
- Leaves a protective film on the crucially important internal contact surfaces of the chain between rollers, bushings, pins and plates.
- Employs a "RESERVOIR EFFECT" to deliver lube into moving parts as you ride.
- Perfect drivetrain lubricant for hot dusty rides (e.g. MTB) or in beach/sand conditions lasting under 4 hours.
- Mix in any ratio with BIKE CREAM (durable-wet-fluid) to make customised lubricant BIKE MIX e.g. 1:4 Bike Cream: Bike Milk for endurance MTB events.
- Great value for money (175ml pack) which lasts longer.
- Also available in economical 900ml workshop pack.
- Proudly created and made in Australia.
1) Degrease chain thoroughly before initial application.
2) Adjust chain onto smallest rear sprocket.
3) Shake BIKE MILK vigorously to re-suspend and disperse the active components.
4) Rotate chain backwards and direct soaking stream of BIKE MILK onto moving chain at cassette. The chain should be visibly coated with BIKE MILK and look wet.
5) Continue reverse chain rotation to allow BIKE MILK to penetrate, clean and flush contaminants from deep inside the chain.
6) After 20 seconds thoroughly wipe the residue off the chain using dry cloth. This is important because the BIKE MILK will dissolve and flush the grease and dirt from the chain and carry it to the outer surfaces, and this needs to be removed from the chain.
For a very dirty or wet chain which has been gummed up with other lubricants or washed with water then this cleaning process may need to be repeated several times.A full degrease is best on a routine basis or the first time Bike Milk is used on the chain. Stage 2: Lubricate and protect
7) Rotate chain backwards and direct soaking stream of BIKE MILK onto moving chain at cassette. The chain should be visibly coated with BIKE MILK and look wet.
8) Continue reverse chain rotation to allow BIKE MILK to penetrate, flush and coat moving surfaces of the chain.
9) Allow the BIKE MILK to dry on all of the metal surfaces of the chain to form a protective lubricating film.Leaving overnight is recommended. In very cold (freezing) conditions Bike Milk does not evaporate as fast and needs longer time to bond to the chain.
10) Repeat this apply/dry lube process several times if chain has been fully degreased or a thicker film is required for endurance rides.
For dry riding conditions it is best to wipe residue from the surface of the chain with a clean rag prior to riding. The chain will look clean on the outside and is less attractive to dust. The lube remains active on the internal surfaces.
The BIKE MILK should be left to dry on the chain to provide a protective water-repellant lube coating on inner surfaces of the drivetrain. If the gaps inside the chain (between rollers, pins and plates) are packed with the tenacious film lubricant it will help prevent dirt and water from wicking into the gaps and increasing friction and wear. There is only minimal external surface coating left with Bike Milk, and most of the lubricant bound inside the moving parts of the chain.LIMITATIONS:
Failure to effectively degrease, clean and dry the chain prior to applying Bike Milk will compromise the bonding of the dry film lubricant onto the metal surface. The lubricant will not last as long in this situation. When riding in warm dry dusty conditions for longer than 4hr or when re-applying lubricant immediately before or during an endurance event the best lubricant option is Bike Mix
(1:4 mixture of Bike Cream and Bike Milk). In some conditions Ride Mechanic Bike Cream
(durable-wet-fluid) is the best lubricant i.e. endurance road riding for high power output riders; road commuters wanting 400km+ between lube applications; road riders who want the convenience of applying immediately pre-ride; riding in very cold conditions where dust levels are low e.g. snow conditions.Excessive drivetrain noise can be caused by several things e.g. noisy jockey wheels, misaligned derailleur, poor meshing of chain and sprocket, grit adhesion on outside of chain during wet rides etc and cannot always "blame" noise on the lubricant. To test if lubricant coating is in place, pinch chain between finger/thumb and run along the top/bottom of links to see if residual lube is present and rubs off.
Because there is no "wet" residue left on the outside of chain Bike Milk runs exceptionally clean and smooth with minimal residual present on outer surfaces. This means reduced surface protection in wet conditions.After a wet ride it is very important to ensure the whole bike and in particular, the drivetrain is thoroughly dried and re-lubricated soon after being wet.